COULD DO BETTER - Part 1 [Restaurants]

Could do better, three words that strike fear into the hearts of any parent on opening a report card. But this isn’t a nostalgic review of my school days, it’s a fitting comment for the state of the nation when it comes to Britain’s Sake scene.

However, let’s start this article in buoyant mood. According to Japan’s National Tax Administration, the export value of Sake reached JPY47.5 billion, and volume hit 35,895kL - that’s an all-time high. Hong Kong’s 7.5 million thirsty inhabitants and I put the city in third place after China and the USA, combined making up over two thirds of the total export value.

In Europe, overall alcohol export value grew to JPY25.21billion (up 125.3%) and in amongst that, the UK is the biggest European market. "Sake is obviously not as mainstream as wine, but it does seem to be having a bit of momentum," comments UK wine writer Jamie Goode, Sake scholar now too, in BBC News recently.

Well done Team Blighty. Sort of.

I had the time to take an on the ground look at London’s Sake scene on a recent trip and although things are looking up, there’s so much more that could be done. Don’t get me wrong, Britain’s acceptance of Sake has come a long way this past decade, supported by the tireless efforts of the British Sake Association, WSET, a handful of independent importers, brewers and a core of passionate Japanophiles. However, the mountain still to climb is going to take a while.

Spring showers at Kanpai London, Peckham Rye

Hurrah for Honjozo!

About 14 billion Covid vaccinations ago (i.e. three years back), I visited Tom Wilson at his thriving Kanpai London brewery. At the time, he was readying a thirst quenching Sake and cucumber drink for canning which he no doubt hoped would become the picnicking drink of choice over the British summer period. And then lockdown kicked in.

A few weeks ago, I went back to have a catch up with Tom. As we chatted through the range (good on you, Tom, for bucking the trend and embracing Honjozo) we got onto Sake penetration in the UK.

From a Sake perspective, the out of home scene isn’t doing too badly. Tom tells me his brews are in over a hundred locations - that’s restaurants, bars and shops in London and beyond - which is some going given the time frames of the operation and the lockdown chaos of recent years.

Well done Cornerstone…

From my own observations, Sake is featuring a lot more on menus than I remember. From the historic (self-proclaimed Grand Dame of Swallow Street since 1916) Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill to the relaxed and casual Cornerstone, in East London’s Hackney Wick (a pricey seven mile taxi ride from the suave Grand Dame in the West End).

…almost, Bentley’s!

However why Sake is shoehorned in with Sherry at Bentley’s, and given no introduction, frustrates me. Like I said, could do better.

Sounds good to me!

Outside of London, things are changing too. It’s a natural sidestep into Sake when your establishment is obsessed with flavour so it comes as no surprise to see The Fat Duck embracing Sake with their recent commitment to taking Staff through the rigours of WSET, under the expert tutelage of Natsuki Kikuya. Only good things can emanate from such a refined experience at the three Michelin bedrock.

They claim in their latest communication that:

At The Fat Duck…we have become fascinated by how Sake contains such a variety of flavours - from banana, lychee and tropical fruits to cereal, mushroom and white pepper. This complexity and diversity have inspired us to create an exciting new Sake pairing - Trip to Japan…an exploration of Sake that is a wonderful and flavourful journey of discovery.

But this is hardly mainstream dining is it. When will we see it recommended on pub menus as a viable pairing to Fish & Chips, rather than a glass of pedestrian Pinot Grigio? That sadly does seem a while off still, Britain. Could do better.

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Coming soon is Part 2 [Retailers]. Please look out for that one, and in between times wherever you are, keep drinking Sake, and let’s smash these 2022 export figures!

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LINKS:

Kanpai London Craft Sake
Peckham Rye London
https://kanpai.london/